Costco Connection - December 2007

“You always find a swirling beehive of
authentic baking happening in our
warehouse bakeries.”
—Jean-Yves Mocquet
Pat’s quick and
easy holiday
dessert buffet

first warehouse club in the industry to have on-site, seven-days-a week, hands-on bakeries, and I am glad the tradition continues.

The Costco baking day begins each morning at 5 a.m. The first order of business is pies, then croissants, Danish, rolls and so forth. Cookies are baked last. Thirty minutes before the warehouse opens, hot breads pop out of the oven. (Mmmm.)

All baked goods taste as good as homemade because they are created by genuine Costco bakers for Costco members only. Many products are made from scratch: cheesecakes, dinner rolls, pecan pies, filling, icings, the new chocolate bark, to name just a few.

No baked products are purchased, except for the parbaked Kirkland Signature artisan breads. “In order to get that great flavor and chewy crust, we feel the breads must be baked in hearth ovens,” Sue explains. “As you can imagine, these ovens are way too big to fit in our kitchens. We do, however, perform the last 20 minutes of baking and final quality inspection.”

I’m pleased to hear that the bakers purchase bakery ingredients, such as butter, oil, white flour, sugars and Kirkland Signature pecans and walnuts, right off the warehouse shelves, just like us.

Fresh and genuine ingredients are key to the program’s success. For example, the Kirkland Signature strawberry cheesecake is made with real, not imitation, sour cream, Philadelphia-brand cream cheese, whole eggs and milk, and strawberries.

Here’s some more good news: Costco’s shortening supplier has developed a 100 percent soybean non-hydrogenated, trans-fat-free oil. So, item by item, the Costco bakery department is reformulating recipes and removing hydrogenated oils when possible. This includes pie dough, dinner rolls, muffins and sweet loaves (pound, banana and walnut). Heart-healthy whole-wheat flours are also incorporated wherever possible.

Cost savings are exceptional. First of all, bakery items listed as Kirkland Signature show at least a 20 percent savings over comparable brands of similar quality. I did a little checking and found even greater values. For example, Costco’s blueberry muffins are 50 cents each, whereas one grocery chain sells a

similar size at $1.62 each. And get this: Costco’s pumpkin pie is $1.65 per pound versus another retailer’s pie at $5.94 per pound.

Time savings are another essential consideration. It takes very little time and effort to drive to Costco and pick up a gorgeous 70- ounce, $9.99 Kirkland Signature pecan pie versus locating a good recipe, shopping and making a pecan pie at home. (I did the math: The homemade pie would take several hours and cost about $25 in supplies.)

I’m also impressed with Costco’s short “sell by” dates. This means fresher baked goods every day, compared to other in-house bakeries. For example, Kirkland Signature artisan bread is on the shelf for just one day. Any leftover bread—if there is any (and this is a big if)—is donated to food banks.

Food aficionados are starting to take notice. Last year, Saveur magazine voted Costco’s classic sheet cake number 25 in their 100 Top Food Things. (I vote it No. 1 in taste.) Jean-Yves isn’t at all surprised. “We allocate the resources of time, training, quality ingredients and the attention to detail needed,” he says. “Our competitors try to copy us, and it is very flattering, but they just don’t get it. Their priority is penny-pinching—ours is quality.” (Half-sheet seasonal cakes decorated for Hanukkah or Christmas and cinnamon butter coffeecakes for family holiday breakfasts are available now.)

Jean-Yves ends our conversation with a noteworthy baking creed: “In baking you have

to do it right the first time. You don’t get a second chance.” C

Our bakery vs.
the competition
Costco
Half sheet cakes
Apple pie
$1.73/lb.
$1.60/lb.
Pumpkin pie
$1.65/lb.

HERE’S A HASSLE-FREE party spread
that serves 30 and costs just $5 per per-
son. Set your table with one of each of the
following Costco Kirkland Signature bak-
ery products. (These are available start-
ing November 23 while supplies last.)
However, if peace and harmony are
what you are seeking, splurge and buy
more. Cheers!
7 Assorted Chocolates, 40 pieces, $19.99
7 Belgian truffles plus Costco hand-
made bark in white chocolate with
crushed peppermint candy canes and
dark chocolate with fruit and nuts.
Pat’s tip: Divide into four portions
and created instant hostess gifts at
just $5.00 each.

7 Apple Cranberry Tartlets and Macadamia Nut Tartlets, four, $16.99. Latticed almond cream (apple cranberry) and hand-topped fudge icing (macadamia) finish the tops.

7 Holiday Cookies Tray, five varieties, 70 total, $16.99. Real raspberry rugalach, traditional shortbreads loaded with cashews, cookies with chocolate and cranberry chunks, moist coconut mint macaroons and traditional spice cookies—and no hydrogenated oil.