This island is filled with beauty and action
IF I’VE LEARNED anything about travel, it’s the
compelling experiential and emotional reasons
that bring you back to a destination. And that
certainly applies to Maui, where I’ve been going
since 1978. It’s not just the white, black and even
red sand beaches, world-class surfing,
whale-watching and, of course, food. It’s also
what happens when you get away from the beach
on this second-largest of the Hawaiian Islands.
Adjacent to the church is the grave of Charles
Lindbergh. The famous aviator, buried here in
1974, chose the spot, which is surrounded by
lovely gardens with sweeping coastal views. Look
for the church window with the figure of Jesus in
I almost always find myself on the road to
Hana, a justly famous, 60-plus-mile stretch
along Maui’s eastern coast. The road and the
views are wonderful, and I also love the opportunity to stop along the way for beautiful beaches,
roadside food stands and spectacular hikes.
But the road doesn’t actually end in Hana.
Continue past the town for an adventure with
breathtaking views on the southern and less-vis-ited side of the island. Stop at Wailua Falls, one
of the most beautiful waterfalls on the island.
The 80-foot cascade can be seen from the roadside, so no need for hiking boots. A morning visit
may reward you with a rainbow as sunlight meets
the mist of the falls.
Next, consider a visit to upcountry Maui and
cowboy country, where the beaches give way to
rolling hills. In the late 19th century, King
Kamehameha II invited vaqueros from
California to teach islanders to wrangle cattle,
and they’ve been doing just that—with some
Hawaiian twists—ever since. Try to schedule
your trip for an annual event: For a half century,
on the Fourth of July, the town of Makawao has
held a rodeo with barrel racing, calf roping, bareback bronco riding and a stick-horse race for
kids. Several area ranches offer open-range
horseback rides where you can accompany a
pan-iolo—Hawaiian for “cowboy”—riding the range
and checking on cattle.
Peter Greenberg is the
winning travel editor
for CBS News and host
of The Travel Detective
on public television
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Eight miles south of Hana—watch for mile
marker 41—is the Palapala Ho’omau Congregational Church, built of limestone coral.
If you want to stir your inner poet, head for a
special piece of Maui that for decades has inspired
W.S. Merwin, one of America’s most widely read
and honored poets. Merwin, 90, opens his garden
and forest of palm trees, the Merwin Conservancy,
CONTINUED ON PAGE 27
Maui offers lushly
walled trails and wide-open beaches.
HAWAII VISITORS CONVENTION BUREAU
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