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travel
connection
IRENE MIDDLEMAN THOMAS
Crystal-clear waters and expansive,
uncrowded beaches are just two of
the many natural wonders awaiting
travelers in Vieques and Culebra.
Islands
of calm
PHOTODISC
Another world lies Vieques has an interesting history. Fort Conde
just off the coast de Mirasol, the last fort built by the Spaniards in the New World, now houses the Vieques
of Puerto Rico Museum of Art and History and the Vieques Historical Archives.
To tour Vieques, try bicycling through the
By Irene Middleman Thomas rain forest. You’ll ride over sandy trails, rocky
AS DUSK SETTLED on the bay, our kayaks paths, thick termite trails and tangling vines.
glided smoothly on the glassy surface. Incredibly lush vegetation and brilliant flow-
Suddenly, just as our guide had promised, ers, such as the native ylang-ylang, fill the air
it happened. with rich scents. At almost every turn, the
Under the moonless night sky, I dipped deep turquoise stripes of the Caribbean
my paddle in the now black water—and it beckon in the near distance.
glowed! One by one, we slipped over the sides Culebra. This serpent-shaped island,
ofour kayaks and became ghostlike, shimmer- with just 2,200 residents, is part of a mini-
ing creatures, surrounded by lighted auras. archipelago of 24 islands used by pirates as
Sudden darts of light shot in front of us like hideouts during the 18th century. Most of the
shooting stars—but they were only fish swim- land on Culebra (a whopping 85 percent) is
ming quickly away from us. protected by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
We were in a bioluminescent bay on as a nature preserve, which means the island’s
Vieques, one of Puerto Rico’s tiny offshore joys are simple and nature-oriented. With
islands. Bahia Mosquito (more commonly dozens of spectacular pale sand beaches, boast-
known as Phosphorescent Bay) is considered ing scalloped bays and coves fringed by lush,
the world’s finest example of this rare natural irregular peaks, Culebra offers what is consid-
phenomenon, in which millions of one-celled ered by many to be the best snorkeling and
creatures light up at nightfall. scuba diving in the Caribbean. Culebra also
Puerto Rico, one of the most visited islands offers excellent bicycle paths and boating.
in the Caribbean, receives dozens of daily non- Accommodations range from Spartan to
stop flights from all over the world, but few vis- ultra-luxurious on both islands. Looking for a
itors explore Vieques or Culebra, gorgeous, lush place where you won’t find a chain store, fast-
islands just one hour away by ferryboat or 30 food joint or one of your neighbors? Head for
minutes by air. Halfway between Puerto Rico Vieques and Culebra, and be among the first to
and St. Thomas, Vieques and Culebra are a discover their delights—before the rest do! C
world away from Puerto Rico’s capital city of
San Juan and its sizzling nightlife and action- Irene Middleman Thomas is a Colorado-based
packed casinos. Laid-back and thinly popu- writer for many local, national and interna-
lated, these tiny islands, with their immaculate tional publications.
golden-sand beaches, clear waters, mangroves,
coral reefs and tranquillity—are a siren song to
tourists looking for a change of pace. The Costco Connection
Vieques. Visitors to Vieques will be hard- Costco Travel offers many Caribbean
pressed to leave its exquisite beaches—with vacations, including several to Puerto
calm, crystalline waters made for relaxing Rico. For information, visit costco.com,
swims and world-class snorkeling and diving. or call toll free 1-877-849-2730.
