The Costco Connection

top at an In-N-Out
Burger along California’s Interstate ; and look
at the parking lot; you’ll see electric cars
parked next to heavy-duty pickup trucks, and
every stripe of American silently sharing the
equalizing experience of the roadside ham-
burger, the original, a;ordable square meal.

From that fast-food burger to the extravagant gilded versions that now regularly appear on white-tablecloth menus, the hamburger embodies America in all its complexity.

I have eaten countless burgers, made from all kinds of meat, and no meat at all, in all kinds of environments, all over the world. I’ve also cooked countless burgers, mostly in restaurants, but also in museums, in alleys, on rooftops and in ;elds. For the past ;; years I have spent a great deal of time pursuing hamburger perfection, only to realize there is no perfect hamburger. There is only the hamburger that is perfect for you. That said, there are bad hamburgers, and bad can and should be avoided in the choices you make in both your purchases and your preparations.

In short, use the best of what is available, and the ingredients you like the most. The wisdom contained herein will set you on the path to a better burger.—Chris Kronner

BUILDING A BETTER BURGER

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 36

S

Burger station

When cooking (or grilling),
burgers come together
quickly. Most patties, from
rare to well-done, cook in a
matter of minutes. It’s very
important—essential,
even—to have all your
ingredients prepped before
starting, so you can build
and then eat your burger(s)

in a timely manner.

Your burger station should have all the condiments at the ready.

Lettuce cleaned and separated into leaves.

Tomatoes sliced. Onions charred. Pickles pickled.

Mayo ready to be spread.

Ideally, the buns should toast while the burgers cook—you want both to be finished at roughly the same time. In terms of timing, err on the side of toasting the buns first and then finishing the patty.